Culture & Etiquette

Cappuccino is only ordered in the morning -- ordering one after lunch or dinner will mark you as a tourist. Espresso (simply called "un caffe") is the default coffee at any time of day. Drink your coffee standing at the bar for the local price, which is cheaper than sitting at a table.

Italian meals follow a specific order: antipasto, primo (pasta or soup), secondo (meat or fish) with contorno (side), then dolce (dessert). You don't need to order every course, but never order pasta as a side dish to your main -- it's a separate course.

Contrary to popular belief, dipping bread in olive oil is not a traditional Italian custom -- it's an American-Italian invention. Bread in Italy is used to accompany your meal and to do "la scarpetta" (mopping up sauce from your plate), which is actually a compliment to the cook.

Italians greet friends and acquaintances with two kisses on alternating cheeks (left first, then right). Handshakes are for formal or first-time meetings. Even in business, Italians are warmer and more physically expressive than in many Northern European cultures.

Italians take fashion seriously and judge by appearance. When visiting churches or religious sites, shoulders and knees must be covered -- this is strictly enforced at the Vatican and many cathedrals. Carry a scarf or light cover-up in your bag.

Many shops and businesses close between roughly 1pm and 3:30pm for the afternoon break. This is especially true in southern Italy and smaller towns. Plan errands and shopping around this schedule. Restaurants serve lunch until about 2:30pm and dinner from 7:30pm onward.

If a restaurant has a person outside trying to lure you in, or if the menu has photos and is translated into ten languages, walk away. The best Italian food is found in neighborhood trattorias away from major tourist sites. Ask locals for recommendations.